The Family Story Nobody Asked For
The Rocky Rococo in Wisconsin Rapids sits where it has always sat, square slices under warm lights, and it was there — after a night I will not fully account for — that my cousin Scooter first posed the question that would occupy him for the rest of his natural life: are the Rocky Rococo girls more datable, or the Culver's girls?
Scooter had met neither. This was, to him, beside the point. He argued both sides with the intensity of a man defending a thesis, switching allegiances between bites, working through a paper bag of cheese curds that squeaked with every point he made, so that his entire case came scored by percussion.
The night involved honey whiskey — Scooter's idea, as all our worst ideas were — shared with me and a man named Joe, who was either Scooter's friend or a stranger who had simply agreed to be near us. Joe said little. Joe drank much. Joe, at one point, wept at a photo of a pontoon. We did not ask.
Presiding over the whole summer, somehow, was my Uncle Captain — a nickname, though the origins are lost — who was on the lake that week performing the impossible: driving the boat and slalom water-skiing behind it at the same time. Nobody saw how. Everybody saw that he did. He would wave from the ski, then wave from the wheel, and the physics were never explained, only respected.
Uncle Captain also claimed to have worked at Perkins — one summer, allegedly, decades prior — and considered this the credential that qualified him to speak on all matters of pizza, dough, and structural bake integrity. That Perkins does not, to anyone's knowledge, serve deep-dish pan pizza never once slowed him down. 'I've been in the back,' he would say, as if that settled it. It did not settle it. It settled nothing, ever. He said it anyway.
It was around then that cousin Banana arrived. Cousin Banana swears, to this day, that she once watched me eat an entire stick of butter in one sitting — the foil, the salt, my expression, she describes all of it. The trouble is the arithmetic: run the dates on when the butter incident supposedly occurred and you find that cousin Banana had not yet been born. She remains unmoved by this. 'I know what I saw,' she says, of a thing that happened before she existed.
It was Uncle Captain, dripping, who finally settled the pizza question we'd actually come for. 'The dough goes three rises,' he said, stepping off a boat he had also been driving, 'and the last one happens in the pan. Learned that at Perkins.' He had not learned that at Perkins. But he was right about the rises, and a squeak of agreement went through the curds. Then he was gone, back onto the water, both places at once. Scooter watched him go and said, quietly, 'Now HE could get a Culver's girl.'
In conclusion, this pizza is a bridge between a night in Wisconsin Rapids and every kitchen that has tried to earn it back. The edges are golden. The middle is supposed to look like that. Scooter, if you are reading this: you still haven't met them. Banana: I never ate the butter, and you weren't there. The recipe is above, where you found it.
Rocky Rococo Pizza
