The Family Story Nobody Asked For
On Potrero Hill there lives a man known to all as Burrito Man, and Burrito Man is at war. Not with the neighborhood, which loves him, nor with the hill, which he has climbed ten thousand times, but with himself — and specifically with the one question that has organized his entire adult life: is Papalote or Papito the superior San Francisco burrito establishment?
He has argued it with his friends, who have opinions. He has argued it with strangers, who did not ask. He has argued it, on at least one documented evening, directly with his god — out loud, on the sidewalk, gesturing with a foil-wrapped object for emphasis. His god did not answer, which Burrito Man took, fairly, as a point in favor of Papalote.
The salsa was always the crux. Papalote's is a specific miracle — smoky, nutty, thickened with pumpkin seeds into something you could and should eat with a spoon. Burrito Man could reproduce nearly everything else about a great burrito, but the salsa haunted him. He toasted seeds at midnight. He charred tomatoes until the smoke alarm became a kind of timer. He got close, then closer, then — one Tuesday now spoken of on the hill — he got it exactly.
But a perfect salsa only sharpened the war, because Papito had its own claim to the throne: the fried chicken super burrito, an object of real gravity, structural and moral. Burrito Man now held a flawless Papalote salsa and a deep respect for a Papito burrito, and the two facts lived in him like tenants who would not speak.
It was his friends — gathered, as ever, around a folding table that had seen things — who solved it the way groups solve things: all at once, and by accident. Someone unwrapped a Papito fried chicken super burrito. Someone else set down a jar of the salsa. The two were introduced. There was a silence of the good kind. The war, it turned out, had been a false binary all along.
In conclusion, this salsa is a bridge between two burrito establishments, one hill, and a man finally at peace: Papalote salsa on a Papito fried chicken super burrito, the best of both worlds. Burrito Man rests. The recipe is above, where you found it.
Papalote Salsa